USO DMZ Tour

I am finally able to cross off the DMZ, which is on the top of my Korea To Do List. I had heard that the USO tour was the best. After several attempts to book a tour, I was finally able to secure a reservation for November 5th. In preparation of the tour I read Somewhere Inside by Lisa and Laura Ling and was super hyped for the tour. The tour started at 9:00 am in Seoul, which meant I had to take the first train to Seoul, which was at 7:07 am.

When we arrived at Camp Kim USO, we checked in, boarded the bus at 8:45, and we departed at 9:00. It took about an hour to get the DMZ. The whole time to the DMZ I was looking at the clouds in hopes it would clear as there was a strong chance of rain. Luck was on our side and we actually experienced wonderful weather once we arrived to our destination.

The first stop was the Third Infiltration Tunnel. This tunnel was discovered by South Korea in 1978 with help from a defector. When North Korea was confronted about the tunnel, they blamed the South of making the tunnel to get into the North. However, the evidence suggests otherwise. There where drill marks found in the tunnel used to put dynamite into the walls; all the drill marks are coming from the north and are pointing south. Then North Korea stated that they where making the tunnels for coal mining and painted the the inside of the tunnel black.

Pictures were strictly prohibited and we had to put our belongings in a locker before we went down to the tunnel. We had to get a hard hat, which I honestly thought would be unnecessary. We then had to walk down a steep walkway. Once we got to the bottom we proceeded into the tunnel. The tunnel was not as narrow as I imagine. There was enough space for people to be walking of both side. The tunnel was a lot shorter then I expected and discovered there was a use for the hard hat after all. After walking to the end of the tunnel, which I did bent down most of the way we saw the 3rd wall that was built by South Korea on the DMZ boarder. I was also able to look into a window and see the 2nd wall.

After the tunnel, we were given time to shop at the souvenir shop.

Our next stop was the Dora Observatory. At the Dora Observatory we got our first glimpse of the North. With 500 won I was able to use the binoculars get a closer look. I did not see any cars, but I did see a person on a motorcycle and three people on bicycles. I was also able to see the huge North Korean flag and the huge flag pole that accompanied it. We latter learned that the flag actually weighs 600 pounds! I was  not able to get any good pictures at the observatory because we where not able to take pictures past the yellow line.

Gabriela and Lisa trying to get a good picture of the North

My first view of North Korea

After the Observatory we went to the Dorasan Train Station. This station is now an abandon station, which had an empty feeling to it. The Station was built on donated money and the trains were designed  to take raw materials to the Kaesong Industrial Region and returned them as finished goods. The Kaesong Industrial Region is an area with factories in North Korea. At some point, relations between North and South were good and they came to an agreement that would benefit both sides. By the South participating in this agreement, they where able to get cheap labor by North Korea and as a result be able to get cheap finished goods. North Korea benefited by the new jobs that were created. According to our tour guide, Bok Choy (her real name) relations went sour after a South Korean tourist, who was visiting North Korea was shot and killed by a 16-year-old soldier because she went in an area she was not supposed to be at.

At 12:00 it was time for lunch, and we headed to the only Restaurant in town which was designed to accommodate all the tourist who visit the DMZ. There were only two options: bibimbap and bulgogi. I must note that I really enjoyed the timing of the tour. The whole time it seemed like we were ahead of the crowd and was never bombarded with crowds. Every time we were leaving a location tons of tourist would just be getting there. Lunch was no different. It was just perfect timing for the whole day. 

 After lunch, we headed to the grand finale of the tour. I must say this was my favorite part of the tour and is what made the tour for me. We arrived at Camp BONIFAS and had to present our passports to a soldier, we latter found out was going to also be guide for this part of the tour.

Specialist BLOOD 

There were two tour groups and two soldiers to escort us. First we received a tour brief at the JSA Visitor's Center. Immediately we were told we would not be able to take pictures unless they told us we could. In the briefing we got an introduction of where we were going to go and what we were going to see. When we finished with the briefing we had to get on a bus that was not our tour bus. 

Our first stop was the Freedom House. We got out of the bus and lined up inside. We then walked to the other side that lead to the Conference Row. We were able to go into the conference building T 2. Inside there were two South Korean Soldiers who held a Tae Kwon Do stance the whole time they are there. 

Here is one of the guards. They guy in the red is actually standing in North Korea.

Here we are in North Korea

We were then lead outside and we were allowed to take pictures but only pointing north. 

A North Korean Soldier

After our time was up we proceeded through the Freedom House again and back on to the bus. We then drove past the 1978 Ax Murder site. 

There was  once a tree here that needed to be trimmed since it was blocking the view of a South Korean Post. When the trimming began, North Korean soldiers used the axe from the trimming company and attacked U.S. and South Korean soldiers. 

Then we were taken to a location where we were surrounded by three sides by North Korea. 

Here is a better look at the huge flag.

It was such a pretty day and it was almost peaceful being out here. The DMZ has turned into a natural preserve. I saw the most wild life here then I've seen anywhere in Korea. So many different birds and bugs. Specialist Blood informed us that this is also home to a rare kind of deer called vampire deer. This deer does not grow antlers, but rather grows fangs and are also blind. He said that instead of running away from noise they run straight to it. Soldiers have several encounters with the deer when they are exercising outside. 

There was no cell phone reception from this point since North Korea has towers to block anything coming into from the South. 

We then got back on the bus and drove past the bridge of no return. 

This bridge goes to North Korea and was used for prisoner exchanges. During the war, the U.S. captured a lot of North Koreans and they were brought here and told they had to choose where they wanted to live. If they crossed the bridge to go back to the North they would not be allowed to return and that is how the bridge got its name. 

On our way back to where the tour started we passed a telephone area that was set up for any North Koreans who did get through and wanted to pass safely. 

Once we got back to the visitor's center we were given time to shop at the souvenir shop and see the museum located on the second floor, and then we where on our way back to Camp Kim USO. 

I loved this tour and I would definitely recommend it to others. I would have not liked to do anything longer since I was exhausted when I got home. I was able to experience everything I hoped for. I am now a little obsessed with North Korea and after the tour I went to straight to What the Book in Itaewon and purchased The Aquariums of Pyongyan a Memoir of life in North Korean labor camp. I am excited to continue learning/reading about the so called hermit kingdom. 

Osan Air Power Show

Once a year the Osan Air force base opens their gates to the public for an air show of Korean and American aircraft. A teacher at my school invited me to go with him and some of his students. A ran into a bit of an obstacle when I tried to enter the base. Since I am a foreigner, they were requiring a passport to enter, which doesn't  make sense since they only require an ARC card (My korean Identification) to enter the base, so I had to ran back home, which is about 30 minutes by bus. I made it back just in time to watch the Black Eagles, which I was told was the best show of the day. I've never seen an air show by the air force, and I was really impressed with the show.

This guy was standing outside the base with a sign that says "stop the air show".
1. I think he is preaching to the wrong crowd since we were all going to the air show.
2. Funny thing is while I was taking the picture he started to put his banner down. When I looked at him again he was holding a camera and taking pictures of the planes that where passing by. 

One of the Black Eagles' plane

On base walking to the air show. I love how you can really feel the fall in this picture. 

The Black Eagles in the sky

The Black Eagles

A pilot of The Black Eagles

The kids hooked me up with a DVD of the Black Eagles performance and one of the pilot's signature

 After the Black Eagles' performance, we went to have lunch. There where so many food vendors but the lines where ridiculously long, which was unfortunate since the top reason for me going was the food. (might have also been a blessing since I am pretty sure I would have hit up every booth for American food.) We got in the shortest line and got pulled pork burgers, which was still a nice change from the Korean food. I also got a US dollar in change back, which made me kind of happy for some reason. I must also note that it was refreshing to order in English to Americans.

The kids enjoying American food 

A perfect day for the air show

Suwon Fortress

This weekend my sister, Lisa, and I went to Suwon to visit the Fortress. When we got to the station all the morning trains to Suwon where booked, and there were only standing seats available. I found this odd because it was still early. When we arrived at Suwon we found the Tourist Information Center.  We were informed that we were lucky since today there was going to be a festival.

We took bus 13 to the Fortress. When we arrived, people where already getting set up for the festival. Lisa and Gabriela headed towards the coffee booth that was offering free coffee. The workers asked if we could take a picture with them in front of the banner. We happily agreed.

As we headed to the fortress, there was a huge area set up for just food venders. We all couldn’t wait to have lunch after our hike. We also noticed that everyone was so much friendlier and happier than in Pyeongtaek. I am not sure if this was because of the festival or if people in Suwon are generally happier people.

We made it to the top of the fortress and walked around for a while. The walk up was pretty steep and I am definitely felt out of shape, but once we made it to the top the rest was pretty flat.

The view from the top

Fortress

On the way down, we stopped at the gold Buddha.

For lunch my sister decided to get Chinese food since they were making the noodles fresh.  Lisa and I were lured by the aroma of BBQ beef. We were unsure how to order but the cashier spoke English and advised us that the cheap meat was American and the expensive meat was Korean. Not sure of the price difference, which was $10 but we went with the good ol’ American beef.  We got so much meat with our two orders; we could have easily shared one. We were so stuffed! After our waitress cooked our meat on the grill on the table she was asking us something about the bones. We had noticed other people had their bones grilled, so we thought maybe she was asking us if we wanted her to cook it as well. We said yes and she took the bones and stuck them in a bag and gave it to us to take home. We were all so surprised.

This is what Gabriela ate

After lunch we decided to head back home. We quickly noticed that the streets had closed due to the parade. We decided to talk towards the next bus stop, but the closures continued for several streets over. By the time we finally made on to a street that had moving cars, we tried to hail a taxi, but every taxi was full! We tried going different ways and still no luck. We had to back track and headed towards the station. We had been walking for what seemed hours and desperately wanted to go home. Walking on all the closed streets we never saw a parade and I was irritated since it made no sense for the streets to be closed. Eventually a nice lady in a taxi stopped next to us, and asked if we were headed to the station. We said yes and jumped in a little too quick. We were all relieved once we were in the taxi.  

When we got to the station all the trains were once again full to go back home. I no longer felt lucky for coming on a festival day.

Parents Visit in September

My parents came to visit me and my sister for our birthdays and where able to stay for a whole month! There is so much we did while they where here.


The first weekend they spent in Korea also happened to be a Korean holiday, Chuseok. This gave us a 5 day weekend. Our birthdays also happened to fall on this weekend. Now I don’t know much about Chuseok, but it has been described to me as a Korean Thanksgiving. I do know that everyone goes back home to be with their family and they also go visit the graves of love ones.

I wanted to go somewhere for the long weekend but everything was so expensive because it was last minute and a holiday, so I looked into going to Jeju but everything was booked. Then I looked into going to Busan, which did have hotels available but there was no way to get there because all the trains were sold out. So we stayed in Seoul at my sisters tiny apartment that my mom liked to call “el hotel de la sardinas”.

For my sister's birthday we went out to dinner and had Italian food at Garosu-gil. Garosu-gil is really close to the Seoul Express Bus Terminal and has a good variety of food. 

The following day we took the Seoul City Tour Bus for $10 that took us all over Seoul's most famous spots. The first stop was Deoksugung Palace. Here is my mom posing with the guard:

Then we stopped at Namdaemun Market, where we had delicious dumplings and lots of street food. 

Then we headed to the the Korean War Memorial Hall.

We ended the evening by going to Namsangol Traditional Korean Village. 

The next day was my birthday and we took a break from the sightseeing and went to watch a Korean play, Nanta.

The next day we continued on the City Tour bus and went to the Seoul Tower, where my sister was stung by a wasp. She still has a mark from it. 

The afternoon was spent at Insadong, which was a street filled with restaurants, shops, and vendors. We had good food, good green tea from Jeju Island, and had a really good time. 

The next day we went to Sorae Pogu Fish Market in Incheon. My sister had gone here with her co-teacher and thought we would also like it as much as she did. We ate at the the same restaurant her co-teacher took her to. We had a fish roe bibimbap, oyster bibimbap, and clam soup. Everything was amazing. My sister was right about how much we would like it. 

The next weekend we went to Busan. I loved Busan! It felt like we where in another country. The people were so nice, the scenery was beautiful, and it just had a different feel to it. My sister and I were both wishing we lived and work there. We did so much while we where there. 

The last weekend my parents were here we went to Gyeongju, a city my sister's co-teacher recommend. 

Folk Village 

Folk Village

Royal Tombs

 We also did a temple stay at Golgulsa Temple. This temple stay was very different then the one I did when I first got here. The temple stay activities were mandatory. Meaning we had to wake up at 4:00 to participate in the morning chant as well as participate in the 90 minuets of exercise. They also had various of activities lined up for the day and the schedule changed daily. The location was also not as beautiful as the last place and I did not leave with the same feeling of calm. We also did not wake up at 4:00 am because we all failed to hear the wake up call. Here are the pictures from the Temple stay:

 We also went to Seokguram Temple, which was close to the location we did the temple stay at. 

I was so sadden to see my parents leave. I was happy that my sister was here, which made the parting bearable. We where so fortunate to have a whole month with our parents. 


Now the weather is starting to change. The change was very drastic. One week it was hot and the next it was super cold. I am trying to take in the cold so that my body can get used to the temperature, but there has already been times I've thought about turning the heater on. Today was 74 degree which was quite nice; however, by the end of the month it should be 59 degrees in the day time.